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Step 1: DEEPLY Understand the 'System,' Not Just the Boxes
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Step 2: Match the 'Power' to the 'Load' (This is Not Obvious)
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Step 3: Audit Every Cable, Flyware, and Accessory
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Step 4: Verify the 'Coverage Predictions' with the Software
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Step 5: Don't Forget the 'Subwoofer Integration'
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Step 6: Order Spare Drivers and Specific 'Service Parts'
- Step 7: Perform a Baseline Measurement & Record It
This checklist is for rental companies and system integrators who are about to place their first—or maybe their second—order for a MARTIN Audio system. Maybe you’re quoting a new festival stage, upgrading a house of worship's installed rig, or building out a touring inventory. This isn't a sales pitch. It's a list I keep taped to my monitor, born from a specific kind of professional pain.
It took me 7 years and about 48 major errors (totaling roughly $62,000 in wasted budget, re-shipping, and rush re-orders) to understand that ordering professional loudspeakers is a different beast than ordering a guitar amp. The stakes are higher, the lead times are longer, and the compatibility issues can be brutal. Here are the 7 steps I use now. They’re not in order of importance—you skip one at your own risk.
Step 1: DEEPLY Understand the 'System,' Not Just the Boxes
This is the mistake I made most often. I assumed 'a line array' was a line array. I looked at the frequency response graph, saw it went low, and thought, 'Cool, we don't need a sub for this corporate event.' Did I verify? No. Turned out I needed a system with specific coverage patterns for a very wide, shallow room. What I ordered was a near-field system for a long, narrow hall. The result? A lumpy, uneven sound and a very unhappy client.
I said, 'We need a MARTIN Audio system for the main stage.' They heard, 'We need three boxes per side for a 3,000-capacity outdoor show.' What they actually needed was eight boxes per side. Communication failure. The gap between what a spec sheet says and what a system does in a given environment is enormous. You need to know the why behind the model number. Why does the WPS have a specific vertical coverage? Why is the MLA Mini better for some venues than the WPS? The 'dear martin audio book' you should be reading is the system design guide, not just the product brochure. Is the venue a lively nightclub or a quiet lecture hall? A festival stage versus a presidential suite for a head of state?
Step 2: Match the 'Power' to the 'Load' (This is Not Obvious)
So you picked your loudspeakers. Great. Now, what's going to drive them? In my opinion, this is where a ton of money goes down the drain. You can't just pick any amplifier. Martin Audio systems often work optimally with their own iKON amplifiers, which use specific DSP presets. In September 2022, I ordered a batch of Blackline X12s. I assumed our existing 'generic' amplifier could handle them. The gain structure was all wrong, the limiters were mismatched, and we fried a tweeter—$450 mistake plus embarrassment in front of a sound engineer who knew better.
I once ordered 16 WPS enclosures and paired them with an amplifier that was underpowered for the application. The upside was a lower initial bill. The risk was a system that couldn't hit the required SPL without clipping. I kept asking myself: is saving $3,000 worth potentially ruining the biggest festival of the year? The answer now is a hard 'No.' There is a difference between 'Touring-Spec' and 'Installer-Grade' amplifier options. You need to confirm the total power draw and the connector type. Is it PowerCON? True1? A IEC C13? This will kill you later.
Step 3: Audit Every Cable, Flyware, and Accessory
Here's a step most people skip. You spec the boxes and the amps. You think you're done. But the system doesn't work without the right cables and the correct rigging. The subwoofer you picked is a MARTIN Audio XP118. Great sub. But does it require a specific connector cable to daisy chain? Yes, it does. Did I verify? No. On a 12-piece order where every single sub needed a different link cable, I found out I ordered the wrong ones. $890 in redo plus a 1-week delay. The wrong hardware could also be dangerous. You're flying these things over people's heads.
Check for: Interconnect cables – Is it NL4 or NL8? Rigging hardware – Are the fly bars and pins included? Weather covers – Is it for outdoor use? Dolly boards – for the CDD-Live? You need to order them separately. First, confirm the exact connector type. Then, order spares. Finally, double-check the physical dimensions of the flight cases. I've had cases that were two inches too tall for the truck. That's a $3,200 problem.
Step 4: Verify the 'Coverage Predictions' with the Software
You're selling coverage. The client is buying even sound. Martin Audio has its own prediction software, DISPLAY. If you're not using it, you're guessing. I feel this is a non-negotiable. In my first year (2017), I made the classic mistake of ordering a system based on the 'standard coverage' spec for the venue. The software showed massive gaps in the balcony. We had to fly a delay system, which we hadn't budgeted for. That mistake cost us $6,000 in extra labor and gear.
When I use DISPLAY now, I build the room model. Then, I place the array. Then, I check the software's prediction of SPL variation. If the variation is more than 3dB, the system design is not correct. The software is your check. Use it. The time MVP for this is 2 hours in the software versus 2 weeks of re-engineering on site. After the third rejection in Q1 2024, I created our pre-check list. Top of that list: 'Has DISPLAY run for this venue?'
Step 5: Don't Forget the 'Subwoofer Integration'
This step deserves its own spotlight. A subwoofer is not just a box that makes noise. The Martin Audio sub you choose (SX218, XP118, etc.) has a specific phase response and coupling behavior. People often just throw a sub into the system and hope for the best. They set all the subs to 'cardioid mode' without confirming the physical spacing. I had a client ask me, 'You are a martin audio guy, the subs sound hollow.' The setup crew had placed the audio mixer cabinet right in front of the sub stack, blocking the exit. The cancellation was a disaster. The question isn't 'Can you add subs?' It's 'Can you get the subs to work together with the main PA?'
To be fair, this is technical. But if you are spending money on a high-end system, you must understand the pattern control. A loudspeaker audio measure (a transfer function measurement) will tell you if the phase alignment is correct. Spend the $1200 on a quality measurement rig. The return on investment is immediate. We've caught 47 potential errors using this checklist in the past 18 months. The most common? Subwoofer polarity errors.
Step 6: Order Spare Drivers and Specific 'Service Parts'
This is a 'grown-up' move that new system owners rarely do. You order 12 WPS boxes. You don't order a single replacement diaphragm for the compression driver. That's risky. Why? Because if one driver blows during a tour, you're looking at a downtime of a week or more for the part to ship. That downtime costs you a day rate of $5,000+ on a lost rental. I now order spare drivers at the moment of purchase. It adds 10% to the initial budget. But it saves you from a complete system failure when the critical 'swing' day arrives.
You should also order a spare audio mixer cabinet for the rig or a spare amplifier module.
Step 7: Perform a Baseline Measurement & Record It
Once the system arrives and is set up, run a full loudspeaker audio measure test. Save this data. Why? Because now you have a baseline. If something sounds 'off' six months later, you can compare the measurement to your baseline and see exactly what changed—a driver is degrading, a DSP setting got bumped, or a cable is intermittent. Without the baseline, you're just guessing. 'It sounds different.' Different than what? You don't know. I learned this after a $4,200 troubleshooting visit where the problem was a single blown fuse in an amp. Could have been found in 5 minutes with a measurement.
My Final Word: The 'Dumb' Mistake That Started This
In my early days, I ordered a whole system based on a PDF I found online. It was the JK Audio RemoteMix 2 for broadcast, not a PA system. Joke's on me. I assumed 'martin audio book' was an error, but it taught me to read the fine print. The 'cheapest' option is never the most economical. You pay for the real MARTIN Audio system either in upfront cost or in constant repair fees. Start the process with the end result in mind—a system that works, delivers, and doesn't blow up your weekend.